In Korea I tried a lot of cafes, and drank a lot of bad coffee on the way to finding the great cafes that I’ve written about here. Coffee is expensive (I’ve paid as much as $15 for a bad cup of coffee in Seoul), so after a while I started avoiding places with signs that the coffee might not be good. Here are those rules of thumb – but keep in mind that there are numerous exceptions and you sometimes just have to try a place and hope to be surprised!
1. If the shop roasted its own coffee in house on a prominently displayed small batch roaster (or especially an air roaster), it probably meant that you were going to get either bland or terrible coffee. Naturally there are many exceptions, but in Seoul it was very very common for all kinds of cafes to roast their own coffee to give them the aura of artisan production and promote misguided ideas of freshness, when in reality someone on staff just burnt the beans every time. I went to one shop who literally roasted the coffee for you AFTER you placed your order (it was bad). You have to judge whether the roaster is there for style, or if it’s there because someone that works there knows what to do with it, which is hard to do just by looking in a store window.
2. If the signage includes Chinese characters it probably means the owner is from the old school of coffee pioneers in Korea, and thus influenced by (what I assume to be, based on bits of information here and there) older Japanese philosophies of coffee roasting that dark roast, or even burn all the different coffees to achieve a ‘caramel’ and ‘roasty’ flavor. Avoid, because it’s depressing to see so much great coffee wasting away as dark roasts with very little flavor nuance.
3. If the menu offers 10-20 single-origin coffees, chances are none of them have been carefully roasted to bring out the best flavor and instead they’ll all taste fairly generic. They’re also probably stale because that much variety doesn’t turn over quickly. There are, again, exceptions at the places that really take their coffee seriously – you can see some of them in my reviews. But the practice of offering a huge selection of poorly roasted single origin coffee is so normal here that the good cafes really are exceptions to the rule.
If you have any other suggestions for what to avoid, chime in with a comment! Or if you object, tell me why :)
12 comments
MAS says:
Sep 23, 2010
I was in Seoul last December for 1 day. The places I picked were not good. If I return, I will reach out to you for your top picks.
May Kim says:
Sep 23, 2010
literally laughed out loud at No.2 You got that right. HAHA-
I myself local citizen didn’t even recognize the correlation between the Chinese charactes and the result of the roasting and someone like you foreigner noticed that’s really interesting.
thanks for the goooood tips~! :-)
JT says:
Sep 24, 2010
LOL great work. I particularly agree with number one. It should also be added that the “roasting cafe” probably should be included in number 1. I have been fooled many times by the those signs only to find an air roaster and horrible coffee. Wonderful POV here.
R. Elgin says:
Feb 14, 2011
Your observations are partly correct. I found one roaster behind the Museum of Korean History that had different people roasting and depending upon who did it, it was ether decent or just plain smoky! Right down the street, underneath the Gallery Jung sits another roaster (Coffee Tour) who did a far better job though. Despite the places that have problems, I find there is a growing number of shops that offer a decent roast and people like Ho Young-man (Apkujong-dong) are doing much to educate a newer generation of roasters and coffee shop owners.
R. Elgin says:
Feb 14, 2011
P.S. I love your blog. Keep up the good work.
Aaron Frey says:
Feb 15, 2011
Thanks! Yeah, consistency is a big problem. Few cafes ever get to a state where they are reliably offering a good product. I’ve tried to limit reviews on this site to cafes where you have at least a ‘good’ chance of having a well prepared, carefully roasted, good tasting coffee.
Coffee & Korea . . . says:
Feb 15, 2011
[…] how to roast well, there are still rough spots as Aaron Frey points out at FRSHGRND in his essay on how to avoid bad coffee in Seoul; burnt beans, poor exhaust ventilation for roasting, etc. According to Ho Young-man, who has been […]
Steve says:
Feb 15, 2011
I’d like to add a rule: When I ask for a brewed coffee, if they reply “Americano?” I pass. It seems like a lot of people with extra cash, wanting to run their own business, were sold on the idea of a coffee shop when someone told them all they need is an espresso machine and some cheap, poorly trained, college kids to work it and they can have the same thing as Starbucks and Coffee Bean (and yes, I used those two as examples intentionally). Ambience is very important, but if the actual coffee is more of an afterthought, it’s a big red flag.
Carol says:
Feb 18, 2011
Not sure about “rules” but there’s a small cafe in Jamwon-dong called King Kong that roasts their own and it tastes pretty good. Its located on the 1st floor of Daerim-sang-ga. (He only has 2 tables.) Check it out.
Ash Webster says:
Jul 7, 2011
Hi Kevin,
I live in Charleston, SC, and I was wondering how many coffee roasters companys (big roasters)are in korea.
And how do I get a list of coffee roasters in Korea. I was told you are the man with the answers.
Respectfully,
Ash Webster
Chimney Dragon – Iron Chamber Tools
N. Charleston, SC
tap says:
Sep 27, 2011
roasting light is rather new trend i gather. the new generation of speciality roasters has moved till the point before the second crack just a handfull of years back. not only japan but most of europe and i gather usa also has been in he dark side from way back. rather most of the world of coffee. except the far northern europe where decades of light roasting from industry side has turned aware people to turn darker.
prove me wrong
Clara says:
Aug 2, 2012
I’m not sure about the Chinese characters, but I totally agree with you about number 1and 3. I usually see what you wrote in the article to find out if they make good coffee. If I may add one more tip, avoid big franchise coffee shops, all they have is unkind and bad skilled staffs.